Jon went on a cross-country motor cycle trip in '91 during his "grey period" and he came across these towns in the mid-west I believe where alcohol had been banned and they became known as "Dry Counties" and it was really inspired by the lives of the people who lived and worked in such harsh conditions there.
That's obviously just one aspect of it. Like Becky said, it's like a spiritual journey and it's also clearly a very personal song to Jon and you can understand the song alot better if you know what a hard time Jon was going through at that time.
This song is more of a poem then a story. It's not a clear-cut song where there is only one answer to what the lyrics mean, it's a deep, layered songs and you just have to find your own interpretation for what they mean.
Phil
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